The price of a full kitchen no longer moves based on linear metres alone. In recent months, manufacturers have been reconfiguring their rates around three factors that few quotes detail: the type of board, the hardware system and the degree of mechanisation in the assembly. Understanding that structure is what separates a realistic quote from a nasty surprise halfway through the job.
What is pushing the price up (and what is holding it back)
According to documentation from manufacturers of wood-derived boards, the cost of MDF and melamine-coated particleboard has stabilised after two years of increases, but the pressure has shifted to the hardware: soft-close hinges and full-extension runners with cushioned closing now account for a good part of the extra cost. In practice, two kitchens with an identical design can differ by 20-25% simply because of the opening system and whether the drawers are partial or full extension.
The opposite trend: high-pressure laminate (HPL) fronts and matt PET finishes are gaining ground on gloss lacquer, because they match the aesthetics with simpler maintenance and a lower price. Gloss lacquer is still more expensive to produce and to repair.
The factor almost nobody budgets for: mechanisation
Here is the most common mistake I see in side-by-side quotes. The same unit can be sold with the board cut and edge-banded, or with the holes for hinges, brackets and runners already drilled at the factory. The second option makes the unit more expensive, but it drastically reduces the hours of assembly at home and alignment errors. If the quote does not specify whether mechanisation is included, you are not comparing like for like.
What to look for in a full kitchen quote in 2026
- Actual board thickness: 16 mm is the budget standard; 18 mm provides rigidity and is the norm in mid-range ranges.
- Type of edge banding: 2 mm PVC absorbs knocks better than the 0.4 mm used in the cheapest options.
- Hardware with an identifiable brand: the quote naming the hardware manufacturer is a sign of transparency.
- Worktop separately: in many price lists the price of the unit does not include the worktop or its cut-out for the sink and hob.
- Transport and assembly: check whether they are included or billed separately; in large kitchens this can be a significant percentage of the total.
This does not work in every case
A modular full kitchen stops making sense when the room has walls that are out of square or ceilings with pronounced slopes: bespoke fillers and trims make the whole thing more expensive and blur the price advantage over custom carpentry. Nor would I recommend comparing full kitchen prices without first fixing the layout, because the number of modules and drawers changes the result far more than the finish chosen.
One nuance worth accepting: there is no single reliable reference price per linear metre for the whole country. The variation between provinces due to logistics and the availability of installers is real, and online comparison sites tend to show display prices that then do not cover your exact configuration.
How to approach the comparison without wasting time
Always ask for three quotes with the same list of modules, the same board thickness and the same level of hardware. If a supplier cannot detail those three points in writing, the price comparison is not valid. And set aside a margin for installation contingencies: in kitchen renovations it is common to find plumbing or electrical installations that force unplanned adjustments.